We visited Denali National Park on Jun 8th, 9th
and 10th. This posting describes the experience.
The Approach
The park entrance is on George Parks Highway (AK-3) at milepost
237. Our campground was 8 miles north of the park.
The highway drops into a majestic Nenana River gorge as we
approach the park.
There’s a commercial tourist center about a mile north of the park entrance.
It doesn’t have a town name. The locals call it “Glitter Gulch”. Hotels,
cabins, excursions, souvenirs, restaurants, groceries, and gas are available there.
The Entrance
There’s a train station inside the park for visitors arriving from
Anchorage, Fairbanks and Talkeetna.
There are seven park campgrounds.
The Visitor Center acquaints us with the park and the Wilderness
Access Center gets us into the park. They’re near the park entrance, about a
mile apart.
We can arrange for shuttle buses, tour buses and make campground
reservations at the Wilderness Access Center.
Travel in the Park
We can drive 14.7 miles into the park without restriction. Travel
beyond the Savage River Check Station must be by park shuttle or a tour bus.
The buses can take us as far as Kantishna (92 miles into the park), but we
won’t be taking the 12 hour round trip.
It took over 20 years to build the Park Road to Kantishna.
Our first visit was late in the day, as a way to get a feel for
the park. We went to the Wilderness Access Center (it was closed), drove around
in Riley Creek Campground, and made a brief stop at Glitter Gulch.
Our second visit was a mid-day, do-it-yourself excursion. We went
to the Visitors Center and drove to Savage River. We repeated the Savage River
drive at 8:30pm the same day hoping for different views and more animal
sightings.
Our fourth visit included a stop at the Wilderness Access Center, a
sled dog demonstration and another do-it-yourself excursion to Savage River.
Denali National Park is the only NPS facility
(out of 441) that has a sled dog kennel. They currently have 31 sled dogs. The
dogs do real work for the park.
Private cabins |
It was a hot day for them |
Pens for observation |
Wildlife
We didn’t see much on the first 14.7 miles of the Park Road.
Two baby moose wander along the entrance road |
There are bigger moose, too. |
There's two-legged wildlife. |
Landscape
The vistas are extraordinary. They seem to change with every viewing.
A braided river |
FAQs
The two questions most frequently asked by Denali visitors seem to
be … will we see it and did we see it? We started searching the horizon for it long
before we got to the park area.
There are complications. The weather is ever-changing around the
mountains. There’s no chance of seeing it on a cloudy day. If that’s not enough
of a challenge, Denali is hard to find if you’re not a tour guide. It’s surrounded
by a vast array of high peaks and it’s located about 100 miles from the park
entrance.
Park people say about 30% of the visitors actually see Denali in
one visit. We have no idea how they arrive at the number. We didn’t see Denali even
after going into the park four times. We’ve decided you have to take a tour or
shuttle bus beyond Savage River to see Denali and/or a variety of wildlife.
Expectations
The fact we didn't see Denali (the Great One) or many wildlife made it quite clear that a successful Denali experience depended on our expectations. We asked ourselves if we came to see the mountain, the mountain range, the wildlife, experience the
wilderness, to enjoy the people we met or to dispel the mystique. Any or all worked for us.
Fun Stuff
We were able to connect with the five California families we met in White River, YT by driving through the Riley Creek Campground inside the park. They were camped in the Bear loop.
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